Your garage door is the heaviest moving thing in the house, and it goes up and down a few thousand times a year. A tune-up is an hour of someone checking the parts that fail before they fail. It’s cheaper than the bang.
Nothing has to be broken. Most people call because the door started acting a little different, and they’d rather find out why now than on a Monday morning with the car inside.
Grinding, squealing or a rattle that wasn’t there last year. Usually dry rollers and hinges, sometimes a worn roller bearing. Worth a look before it turns into a roller jumping the track.
A door that shudders, hesitates or slows near the top is often out of balance. The opener ends up doing the spring’s job, and that wears out the opener’s gears.
Nobody’s touched it since the house was built or since the last repair. Once a year is the normal interval. Gulf humidity in Katy rusts springs and dries out lube faster than the manuals assume.
A spring doesn’t warn you by the calendar. A tune-up shows how worn the springs and cables are, so you can plan a replacement for a day that suits you. It won’t pick the worst possible morning.
Door and opener, top to bottom. If something is worn past saving, you’re told what it is and why, and you decide what happens next.
We take the opener off and lift the door by hand. A balanced door stays put halfway up. One that drops or flies up has springs that need adjusting or replacing.
Checked for rust, gaps in the coil and lost tension. Torsion springs are adjusted only by a tech with the right bars, because they hold the whole weight of the door.
Worn, cracked or wobbling rollers are the usual source of noise, and the usual reason a door comes off its track. We check every one.
Cracked or loose hinges let the panels flex. We tighten what’s loose and point out any hinge that’s split.
Checked for bends, loose brackets and alignment, then wiped clean. Tracks are cleaned, not greased. Grease in a track collects grit.
Lift cables are checked for fraying and rust where they meet the bottom bracket, and for sitting right on the drums. A frayed cable is replaced, not lubricated.
The two photo-eyes by the floor are cleaned, lined up and tested, so the door reverses when something breaks the beam.
The opener’s force and travel limits are set so the door closes fully without slamming, and the auto-reverse is tested with an object on the floor.
Springs, hinges, roller bearings and the opener rail get a lubricant made for garage doors. Not WD-40, which is a cleaner and strips what little lube is left.
Once a year for most houses. If the door is the front door, meaning the family goes in and out through the garage several times a day, twice a year is worth it. A spring is rated in cycles, not years, and a busy garage uses them up fast.
Between visits, the one check worth doing yourself is the sensor test: close the door and wave something through the beam. It should stop and go back up. If it doesn’t, stop using the opener and call.
Lubing your own door is fine if you use the right stuff in the right places. Most of the noisy doors we see were lubed, just badly. WD-40 goes on the springs and cleans off the little lube that was there. Grease goes into the tracks and turns into grit paste. Oil goes onto nylon rollers that didn’t need it.
What you shouldn’t do yourself is touch the springs, the cables or the bottom brackets. They’re under enough tension to break a wrist. That part is what a tune-up is for.
A tune-up keeps a working door working. It doesn’t fix a broken one, and some faults shouldn’t wait for a scheduled visit:
For anything else that’s actually broken, the Katy garage door repair page has the full list. If we find one of these on a tune-up, we’ll tell you on the spot. The trucks carry springs, cables, drums, rollers and sensors, so it’s usually fixed the same visit if you want it done.
You get the price before any work starts. We don’t quote parts sight-unseen, because a tune-up that turns up a worn spring is a different visit from one that doesn’t. The repair cost page explains what sets the number, and tune-ups are on the coupons page. Parts carry a five-year warranty, workmanship ninety days.
Shops, warehouses and units along the Katy Freeway and Grand Parkway have heavier sectional and rolling steel doors that run all day. They wear out faster than house doors and cost more when they stop. Planned maintenance on those is a separate job. See commercial garage door repair.
When it’s already broken. All four Katy zips, the full symptom list, and how a visit goes.
See the Katy page →Door stuck open, car shut in, a spring gone at night. What counts as an emergency and what can wait until morning.
See emergency repair →What sets the price of a garage door repair, and how to check a quote you’ve already been given.
See repair costs →The bang, the door that won’t lift, and why a 7ft spring on an 8ft door comes straight back.
See spring repair →Rolling steel and heavy sectional doors for shops, warehouses and units.
See commercial repair →The next town over. New builds, 8ft doors and the first original springs coming due.
See Fulshear →The community right around our office on Kingsland Blvd.
See Cinco Ranch →Once a year for most homes. If the family uses the garage as the main way in and out, twice a year is worth it, because springs wear by the number of cycles, not by age.
Katy’s humidity is hard on springs and lube, so don’t stretch it much past a year.
Door balance, springs, rollers, hinges, tracks, cables and drums, the safety sensors, and the opener’s force and travel limits, including an auto-reverse test. Then the moving parts are lubed with a garage-door lubricant.
If something is worn past adjusting, you’re told what it is before anything is replaced.
On most Katy calls, yes. Call (346) 998-5099. A person answers day or night. A tune-up isn’t urgent, so if you’d rather pick a day that suits you, say so and we’ll book it.
If the door has actually stopped working, tell us that. A broken door goes ahead of a tune-up.
Yes, if you use a lubricant made for garage doors and keep it on the hinges, roller bearings and springs. Don’t use WD-40, which is a cleaner, and don’t grease the tracks, which just collects dirt.
Leave the springs, cables and bottom brackets alone beyond a spray of lube. They’re under serious tension, and adjusting them is a job for a tech with the right tools.
Usually maintenance. Squeaks and grinding are most often dry or worn rollers and hinges, and a tune-up sorts them out. A new noise that came with a bang, or a door that suddenly feels much heavier, is different. That’s usually a spring, and it’s a repair.
If you’re not sure, describe the noise when you call.
Almost always the safety sensors, the two small eyes near the floor on either side of the door. Dirt on a lens, a bracket knocked out of line, or something parked in the beam will do it.
Wipe both lenses and check that nothing is in the way. If it still reverses, the sensors need lining up or replacing, and they’re checked on every tune-up.
Pull the release cord with the door fully closed and lift it by hand. If it’s heavy, sticks or won’t stay halfway up, the problem is the door, usually the springs or the balance. If the door moves easily by hand, the opener is the likelier culprit.
Don’t pull the release on a door that’s partway open. If a spring is broken, it can drop.
Yes. Parts we fit carry a five-year warranty, and our workmanship is covered for ninety days. If a tune-up turns into a part replacement, that part comes with the same five years.
A person answers, day or night. Price before any work starts, and a truck out of Katy.
Send your details and say it’s for a tune-up. We’ll get back to you to book a time. Prefer to talk it through now? Just call.
The trucks come out of our office on Kingsland Blvd in Katy, so Katy and Cinco Ranch are the shortest drives we have. Next town over, Fulshear is regular work too.
Further into the metro, maintenance is booked the same way. See the Houston garage door repair page for the full area.